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The following setup procedures and specifications for
your LesPaul were derived using the strings, which come on the instruments
as standard equipment from the factory. If you plan to change string
gauges, you may need to adjust the specs somewhat to compensate for the
changes in string sizes. Modifications of the specifications may also be
made, (within limited parameters) to adjust for your individual playing
style or application (i.e. how hard you pick, strum, or fret the
guitar) Note: These are minimum specifications which are meant
to guide you, and should not to be taken as hard and fast rules, as we
realize that every player's subjective requirements may differ
somewhat.
Necessary Tools:
Nut driver, 1/4" or 5/16". You'll probably need one specially made for
guitar truss rods. Purchasing info is at the end of this article.
Metal ruler or straight edge, 20-25" long
Small ruler with 1/16" increments
- Strings: String action (height), fret buzz and intonation
will vary with different string gauges and from old to new strings. You
want to do your setup under actual playing conditions, so string your
guitar with the gauge of strings that you're going to play. If you're
replacing strings on a new Gibson, most solidbody electrics (Les Pauls,
ES-335s, Nighthawks, Flying V's, SG's) come from the factory with light
gauge strings, beginning with .009. The Chet Atkins SSTs and hollowbody
electrics (ES-175) come with .010s. Most flat tops are strung at the
factory with medium gauge, beginning with .013.
- Tuning: Again, your guitar needs to be in playing condition,
so tune up to standard pitch (or whatever tuning you'll be using).
- Neck Relief: Use a straight edge to determine if a truss rod
adjustment is needed. If the neck is bowed, there will be a space under
the middle of the straight edge where the neck does not touch the
straight edge. If the neck is "backbowed," the frets will touch in the
middle of the straight edge.
NOTE: A slightly bowed neck is ideal for most playing styles. A
perfectly straight neck generally requires higher string action than a
slightly bowed neck in order to minimize string buzz at the higher
frets. Repairmen describe this as giving the neck some "relief" to allow
for string vibration. The amount of relief necessary varies with playing
styles, however. A perfectly straight neck may be fine for a very light
picking style. If your neck has only a slight bow, you may not want to
make any adjustments to the truss rod.
I like to start with a perfectly straight neck. If I can't get the
neck straight, then that indicates other possible problems, such as high
frets (frets being pushed out of their slots), low or worn frets, or
variations in the fretboard itself, Many older guitars have a "bump" in
the fingerboard over the neck block, for example. All of these problems
are fixable, but require an advanced level of repair experience.
- Truss Rod: (if necessary). First remove the truss rod cover.
If the neck has too much of a bow, then the truss rod should be
tightened with a clockwise turn of the nut. For a clockwise turn, the
arm of the nut driver should start on the treble side of the fingerboard
and move toward the bass side. Don't turn the nut more than a quarter of
a turn at a time. For a backbowed neck, the truss rod should be loosened
with a counterclockwise turn of the nut. When the neck is as straight as
you can get it, then back off about a quarter of a turn for "relief."
- String Height. With the small ruler on top of the fret,
measure the distance to the bottom of the string. (You can also use a
feeler gauge for these measurments.)
The string height at the 1st fret will determine if the nut slots
have been cut to the proper depth. If the nut slots need to be deepened
or filled in, that's a job for a pro with the proper tools.
The string height at the 12th fret will determine whether the saddle
should be raised or lowered.
Gibson Electric String Heights:
1st fret- treble side - 1/64"
1st fret- bass side -
2/64"
12th fret- treble side - 3/64"
12th fret - bass side -
5/64"
- Saddle Height: On an electric guitar with a tune-o-matic
bridge, or on an archtop guitar with a height-adjustable bridge, the
thumbwheels will raise or lower the bridge. You may have to loosen the
strings a bit to get the bridge to raise easily. On an acoustic, the
bottom edge of the saddle will have to be shaved or sanded off to lower
the action, or shimmed or replaced to raise the action. You'll have to
loosen the strings to remove the saddle, then file it down on a flat
file -- just a little at a time -- and then replace the saddle and tune
up again. Don't try to file the top of the saddle, since it's rounded to
match the radius of the fingerboard. And make sure the bottom remains
flat or the bridge will want to rock in its slot and not make good
contact with the top of the guitar.
If you are unable to bring the strings to a comfortable height for
playing, you may need a neck set. Another option is to remove the bridge
and either shave it down or replace it with a higher one. The optimum
height for a wood bridge on a flat top guitar (just the bridge, not
including the saddle) is 3/8", so if you're going to have to go much
above or below that, the neck set is the better solution. Either way,
it's a job for a pro.
- Nut Slots: Special nut files are required that are available
from guitar shop supply sources. We get ours from Stewart-McDonald. Set
nut slot depths to specs listed above for first fret.
- Fret Buzz:. Using a medium pick or light finger touch, check
all fretted notes for string buzz. If correct, move up the next step. If
not, some fret leveling may be required. This is another procedure for a
pro with the right tools.
- Intonation (Standard Bridge): At the 12th fret, play a "chime
tone" by touching the string without pressing it to the fret. Release
your finger from the string as you pluck it. You should hear the octave
overtone. Now press the string to the 12th fret and play. If the tones
match, then the intonation is correct. Notice that the 12th fret tone
may vary according to how hard you press the string down.
- Intonation (Tune-o-matic Bridge): On an electric guitar with
a tune-o-matic bridge, the length of each individual string is
adjustable. If the 12th fret tone is higher than the string's natural
octave overtone, then lengthen the string by moving the saddle toward
the tailpiece of the guitar. If the 12th fret tone is lower than the
octave overtone, then move the saddle toward the neck.
On an electric guitar with a wraparound tailpiece, the tailpiece can
be adjusted only at the treble end and bass end. It is usually not
possible to achieve perfect intonation for every string with a
wraparound tailpiece. If an individual string is out of tune, you may be
able to compensate by replacing that string with a higher or lower gauge
string.
On an acoustic archtop guitar, you can only adjust string length by
moving the entire bridge. Loosen the strings so that bridge will move
freely without scratching the top of the guitar
- Truss Rod Nut Driver: Many Gibsons came with a wrench-type
nut drive, with a small arm mounted at a 90-degree angle from the truss
rod. The pros use a nut driver with a 6-inch shaft that ends in a T-bar.
You can order either style from Stewart McDonald at 800 848 2273:
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- Wrench type 1/4" (for Gibson electrics and some acoustics), part
#944.
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- T-bar nut driver, 1/4-inch, part #941.
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